The two main requirements for successfully growing these bulbs or corms are excellent drainage and a dry rest period during summer dormancy.

For containers use a well-drained sandy mix. I have used several mixes, here are two. First, 33% compost (usually fir bark), 33% scoria sand (crushed volcanic rock) and 33% wood shavings. The second mix is composed of 40% compost (usually fir bark) and 40% coarse sand and 20% pumice. A good bagged potting soil can be used for the compost. Avoid organics such as composted manure's. The addition of a small amount of bone meal is helpful. Plant bulbs to a depth of two to three times their height. For some bulbs (e.g., Cyrtanthus, Geissorhiza, Gynandriris, Hesperantha, Lachenalia, Massonia, Moraea, Polyxena, Romulea, and Veltheimia) best growth is under 30-50% shade. Full sun for the others. In very warm climates a little more shade is helpful. For the most difficult bulbs (e.g., Ixia viridiflora, Gladiolus carinatus) which easily rot use the sand base method that follows. First fill the container with potting mix to planting depth; than add 1/4-1/2" sand. Place bulbs on sand base and cover completely with more sand. Finally fill the remainder of the container with potting mix. This encases the bulb in sand for extra drainage. For the garden, with year round irrigation, always use the sand base method. I also use this method in the nursery for all of the smaller bulbs (e.g., all Geissorhiza, Hesperantha, the smaller Lachenalia and Moraeas).

Planting can begin in August. However, do not start watering until the weather cools down; usually late September or October. Plant all bulbs by the end of October. If any bulbs have begun to sprout, plant and water immediately. In the nursery I water my bulbs once a week with occasional extra water when the weather is very warm.

Begin fertilizing once bulbs are in active growth. I have come to believe that all plants prosper from consistent and regular nutrition. I now fertilize every other week with constant liquid feed. I put a small amount of liquid fertilizer (about 100 ppm) into the water (via a fertilizer injector). The results are amazing with strong robust growth and lots of flowers. It is better to fertilize frequently with a low dose than infrequently with a large dose. It may not make a difference what kind of fertilizer you use, just try to do it often and at low doses. Discontinue feeding after flowering. The leaves of plants will then begin to yellow. This signals the on-set of dormancy. Reduce watering and let foliage die back. Discontinue watering when leaves have withered.

Stop all watering during summer dormancy. Store pots in a shaded location after soil has dried completely. Lift most bulbs in the garden and store in a warm, dry location. Store lifted bulbs in a dry soil mix. This is especially true for the softer bulbs (e.g., Lachenalia and Ornithogalum) which resent lengthy exposure to air. Some, however, will tolerate some summer water; e.g.,Babiana sticta, Babiana pulchra and hybrids, Chasmanthe species, Ferraria crispa, Freesia's, Gladiolus tristis, Homeria flaccida, H. ochroleuca, Ixia capillaris, I. flexuosa, I. rapunculoides, Sparaxis bulbifera, Sparaxis tricolor and hybrids, Tritonia crocata and T. lineata, Veltheimia bracteata, and most Watsonia's.

Best of luck and good gardening.